Detail of a cherry blossom

Our long established cherry trees have burst into flower this week. The warmer weather has arrived and the garden is returning to life.

Cherry blossom
Cherry blossom
Detail of a cherry blossom
Detail of a cherry blossom
Detail of a cherry blossom
Detail of a cherry blossom

My work is keeping me trapped inside for the bulk of the day but, when I can in the late evening, I am outside.

Detail of plum blossom
Detail of plum blossom

Snake in the Grass

Snake in the grass
Snake in the grass

The texture of the snake gave it away. The light reflecting off the skin seemed out of place, somehow unnatural and unnerving. It took a moment to figure out what had caught me off guard. Once found, my only thought was getting the camera.

Easter Baking and Brambles

Hot cross bun split apart.

After too many years without, this is our first Easter with a proper oven. What better time than to bake some hot cross buns?

Ring of hot cross buns cooling on a rack.
Ring of hot cross buns cooling on a rack.
Hot cross buns cooling.
Hot cross buns cooling.
Hot cross bun split apart.
Hot cross bun split apart.

Spring and Brambles

Spring has officially arrived but the weather has yet to take note. I have never been so keen to see the greenery return to the landscape. The freezing cold has mostly finished, and now wind and rain is easing us into better weather. But not soon enough.

When time allows, I have been busy in the garden. We have decades of overgrowth to tame. The brambles are being particularly challenging. I have cut back the bulk and we have a compost pile four metres long by one and half metres tall. Sadly, this compost is unusable and will have to be removed or destroyed. The brambles will not be wiped out through the composting process and could return if I used the compost later.

A section cleared of brambles
A section cleared of brambles

The garden will take many years to resemble anything approaching our ambitions. The task of getting to that point will be more than half the fun.

Metal Studs and TV Mounts

Range of mounting bolts.

Mounting our television onto our internal wall took more time and effort than expected. Our internal walls have metal studs and thus defy traditional advice aimed at wood studs or brick walls.

We had long planned to mount our television onto the wall. The height of the television sitting on a low cabinet was not enough. When I reclined, my feet blocked part of the screen. The screen needed to be higher.

The house was designed to provide a small cozy area for our sofa and television. A comfy area to sit and relax in. To make the most of the space and to get enough distance from the sofa to the screen, the television needed to be mounted on the wall.

When the house was constructed we took careful note of where the metal studs were in the wall. Now the walls have been covered with plasterboard and painted, these measurements came into their own. We were able to quickly locate and confirm the centre of a metal stud. A cheap stud finder bought for the purpose reassured us long before the first hole was drilled.

I picked a nice articulating television mount. The mount is an arm that allows us to adjust the television’s position and turn it ninety degrees left or right. We could, if we wanted, view the television from the main part of the room.

Being on an arm means much more stress will be applied to the wall. A statically mounted television only has to worry about the television’s weight. A moveable arm might have to deal with clumsy manipulation, pulling, and pushing that makes the static weight seem trivial.

The mounting arm came with three huge bolts, rawl plugs, and a claim to include everything needed. This claim was quickly proved wrong.

The bolts were a shade shorter than our internal walls are thick. Drilling the right depth hole would have meant putting the bolt, not only into our wall, but through our wall and out of the other side.

Supplied bolt compared to our internal walls.
Supplied bolt compared to our internal walls.

Our first unexpected purchase was for suitable bolts. Slightly shorter but no less thick.

I drilled the three required holes. Each one hit metal as expected before escaping into an insulation packed cavity.

Throughout the process we told ourselves we could repair any damage we did. Small holes such as these would be nothing compared to the gaping gouges we repaired before painting the house.

We told ourselves patching and repainting one wall was doable. Not welcome, but doable. We had painted everything else, so one more wall was doable.

Insulation exploded out from the top hole.
Three holes drilled. Insulation exploded out from the top hole.

With three permanent holes drilled into the metal studs, we inserted the supplied expanding rawl plugs. These are the type that, when the screw thread grips, compress the plastic and it balls up on the other side of the stud. Once balled up the plastic can not be pulled back through the smaller channel ensuring a strong hold.

The three fancy rawl plugs were thumped into the wall and we were ready.

Megan held the mount while I screwed in the appropriately sized bolts for our walls. Three loose bolts we had bought from our local hardware store, with now very familiar staff.

Two bolts went in firmly. The third kept turning. However much I tightened the bolt there was always another turn possible. The rawl plug eventually turned with the bolt. Maybe the plastic had expanded and the bolt was now safe.

Megan slowly let the mount take its own weight. It held. For a few seconds. Then the mount tipped forward away from the wall a millimetre and then another. It stopped there. Leaning forward, with too much play in the mount to be trusted.

Megan took the weight of the mount again. I undid the bolts one at a time, hoping each would come back out. They did. The third rawl plug now jutted out from the wall, so no flush finish would be possible with the metal plate of the mount.

Three expanding rawl plugs failed to take hold.
Three expanding rawl plugs failed to take hold.

I used pilers and surprised myself by easily pulling out the turning rawl plug. The other two seemed firmly in place.

We took a moment and chatted nervously about our options. We had expanding metal bolts in the basement. Known as Molly bolts in the USA.

We would try those next. A metal bolt is going to be stronger and better than a plastic rawl plug. A little more serious in approach but better.

The problem of the two remaining rawl plugs worried me. We were boring away an increasingly large hole of plasterboard around the drilled holes. Once broken, plasterboard crumbles easily and every touch makes it worse.

I tried again with the pliers and, using enough force to slightly wobble the entire wall, yanked the rawl plugs out. Disappointingly neither had expanded. The bolt had not triggered the mechanism. Worse, the metal stud had stripped the outer plastic protrusions from the rawl plug. They had been stripped smooth by the sharp metal. Useless.

Had we trusted those two firmer plugs, our television would not have lasted long on the wall.

We now had three larger than planned holes in our once beautiful new wall.

We committed to trying the Molly plugs. We could always fix a damaged wall. I hammered the metal plugs in. The small teeth around the head gripped into the plasterboard.

Three molly style plugs ready to tighten.
Three molly style plugs ready to tighten.

As before, Megan once again took the weight of the television mount and I started tightening the bolts. As I turned the metal plug’s teeth took and then the head snapped. A circle of metal uselessly dangling against the painted side and a chunk of metal plug now permanently stuck in my wall.

The head is designed to come off but not during installation. Not now.

We could fix this one plug.

But it did not take long to face complete defeat. We tried tightening the other two Molly bolts. With each turn the teeth held for a moment and then carved away the plasterboard. Without grip the metal plug and bolt rotated together eating away our wall. No grip, no expansion, and no compression to make the mechanism work.

I pulled firmly on the bolts and each ensemble slid right out of the wall. Two useless bolts and metal plugs in hand, and one forever entombed in our wall. The entombed metal plug I pushed into the wall cavity and down out of the path of the hole.

A moment of defeat.

We knew we were defeated for the day. After tiding up, we returned the television to the low cabinet. For the next week, each time we watched television three holes stared back at us.

Our chatter at night turned to accepting the television might actually be OK on a nice higher piece of furniture. Fix up the wall and forget it happened.

I did more research. Molly plugs continued to be suggested as a solution. They would have been, had we used a specialised tool to help tighten them up. We know that now but at the time such a tool seemed optional. A lesson learnt.

Molly tools to avoid damaging the plasterboard.
Molly tools to avoid damaging the plasterboard.

With the plasterboard around the holes damaged, we needed a different approach. I found and ordered a box of toggle bolts. Toggler is the brand we stumbled upon first. A clever bar of metal with a plastic widget attached. The plastic widget helps manoeuvre the bar into place within the wall. After that everything is metal bolted to metal.

Box of Toggler bolts and the complimentary wood stud drill bit.
Box of Toggler bolts and a complimentary wood stud drill bit.

When the toggle bolts arrived I was keen to get them fitted and complete the job. Getting them into place was tricky. They wanted a larger hole through the metal stud than I had drilled.

My latest drill bit was not large enough and a sawing action was my only option to widen the hole. The approach worked but felt awful. The toggle bolt needs to go through the hole sideways and then be twisted into place within the wall. The hole thus has to accommodate not just the metal bar but also part of the plastic widget.

After fifteen minutes of fiddling, pushing, and jamming the toggle bolts were in place. They felt secure and I could see they were in place before needing to the screw in the bolts.

I had done this last part with the toggle bolts alone. Megan was out teaching and I was too impatient to wait. Now I had to wait for Megan to come home. Fitting the mount itself was a two person job.

Megan was met by the sight of three protruding plastic strips and a husband keen to explain his achievements.

Three toggle bolts. Top two plastic tightened. Bottom bolt remaining to tighten.
Three toggle bolts. Top two plastic tightened. Bottom bolt remaining to tighten.
Three toggle bolts with plastic trimmed off.
Three toggle bolts with plastic trimmed off.

For the third time, Megan took the weight of the mount. This time, when she let go the mount held. It stayed in place with no trace of movement or wobble. We had gotten away without needing to repair or repaint the wall. The mount was secure.

Television mount secure and ready to use.
Television mount secure and ready to use.

We carefully completed the task of fitting the television to the arm. It took a while before we were comfortable fully extending the arm and placing the greatest strain on the mount and the wall fitting. It all held.

Fully extending the arm was nerve racking.
Fully extending the arm was nerve racking.

Since then we have altered the position of the television only a little. The new height of the screen is excellent and our cozy area is working well.

I am not rushing to drill any more holes in our walls just yet.

Snow and Warmth

Snow laying across the valley. Allier, France.

For the first time in years, we watched snow falling while feeling warm.

Snow laying across the valley. Allier, France.
Snow in the valley. Allier, France.

The snow arrived a few days ago. A welcome flurry of flakes just in time before our guests had to head home. When our guests arrived, Autumnal leaves were still on the trees; as they left, we drove through a stunning snow covered landscape.

Inside looking out on snow.
Inside looking out on snow.

Being able to stand inside and look out across a snowy landscape is a treat. Being warm while doing so, is a delight and a relief.

Welcoming Our First Guests

Rooftops of Moulins

We enjoyed having our first visitors to stay. It was an opportunity to see if the house design worked with guests, it did, and to take numerous photos, I did.

Our house is not luxurious but it is warm and designed to make use of every square metre. We do not have a dedicated guest room. When guests come to stay, we transform what has become Megan’s office into the guest room. The transformation gives our guests their own bathroom, privacy, and a little space to themselves at night.

We experienced how well this arrangement worked when we visited friends in London. This was something more than a simple en-suite. Having your own bathroom and space as a guest is wonderful. We later saw this approach reappear in house plans suggested by various builders. In those plans, the separated area was marketed as being for the parents or master bedroom.

We took that experience on board. In our design we adapted the idea and instead ensured guests would benefit, rather than the master bedroom. At this stage of our lives, we like the idea of a family section of the house and a shared family bathroom.

Our house design confused the builders. They assumed uses of the spaces that were never intended. At times that caused quizzical exchanges.

What we have built is particularly attuned to our needs. This then was our chance to see if the design worked for guests. I think it did.

Photo Opportunity

With guests in tow, I have been out and about taking more photos than usual. Below are a few photos that particularly stand out.

Saint-Germain-des-Fossés train station
Saint-Germain-des-Fossés train station
House in Charroux
House in Charroux
Rooftops of Moulins
Rooftops of Moulins
Vichy Opera House
Vichy Opera House
Inside Vichy Cathedral
Inside Vichy Cathedral

Making the Phone Vanish – Telephone Calls via an HT-503 and Raspberry Pi

Telephone, HT-503, and Raspberry Pi

Having spent two days fighting with my HT-503 box and telephones, I have achieved what I wanted. Two days ago I knew practically nothing about SIP, VoIP, Asterisk, and PSTN bridges. Now I can make landline calls to and from my computers.

I am now terrified that I will need to reconfigure my phones in the future and will forget everything I have struggled to achieve. Thus I am writing this for you, dear future me – and for you dear reader who has stumbled upon this hoping for answers.

Avoiding a Phone

We have a single landline connected to our house. This line is provided by our telephone provider and offers inclusive calls almost anywhere in the world. We use our landline to phone friends and family without worrying about call time or cost; everything is included in the monthly fixed fee.

We have a home network and a disliking of modern domestic landline phones. Home phones today pale in comparison to the cheapest mobile phones; so we decided to see if we could avoid them entirely.

Office phones are capable enough but ugly and fairly expensive. Researching office phones lured me into the world of Power over Ethernet (PoE) phones and Session Initiation Protocol (SIP) connected phones.

Ideally, we wanted to avoid needing a physical phone. A physical phone would mean having a single location to keep the phone in the house. It would be another item plugged into a wall and it would mean dedicating a prized network socket to a single purpose item, a phone.

Maybe we could use our computers as phones? They have speakers and microphones. Why not also use our trusted iPod Touch as a phone? Surely this was possible.

This led me down the path of SIP, Asterisk, and ATAs.

HT-503 – Bridging the Landline and Network

For the same cost as an office phone, or less, you can buy a Grandstream Networks HT-503 FXO/FXS Analog Telephone Adaptor (ATA). This small box of electronics can bridge the divide between a landline phone and a computer network.

Front of the Grandstream HT-503
Front of the Grandstream HT-503

When researching these bridging boxes, the trick is to look for an FXO port. This is the physical port you need to connect to an existing phone line provided by your telephone company.

Small boxes with FXO ports are far less common than boxes with the corresponding FXS ports. It is easy to become confused between the two similarly named ports.

So I bought a Grandstream HT-503 a couple of weeks ago for around fifty-five euros. The box is reasonably small, had the physical ports I needed, and has a feel of early twenty first century industrial design about it. The web interface is enough but it might be best to lower your expectations around ease of use.

Having checked the box powered on and seemed responsive, I took one look at the myriad of options, realised I was out of my depth, and put it aside for a couple of weeks.

What I Wanted

I wanted the following:

  • to be able to make phone calls from our computers through our landline connection;
  • to be able to answer incoming landline phone calls from our computers;
  • to have a working physical phone always connected for emergencies;
  • to be able to use software based phones, aka soft phones;
  • support for SIP devices in case we needed an office phone.

I did not care about:

  • being able to make outgoing VoIP calls to outside of the house;
  • being able to receive incoming VoIP calls from outside of the house;
  • being able to send or receive faxes.

What I Had – Equipment and Hardware

I had the following hardware:

  • a landline phone connection (RJ11 connection)
  • an ethernet network (RJ45 connections)
  • a Grandstream Networks HT-503 (RJ11 and RJ45 connections)
  • a Raspberry Pi 2 computer
  • an old home phone handset

What I Did – Setting up Phone Network

So this weekend, I set aside some time and threw myself into solving the home phone problem.

These are the steps I took to reach a working network based home phone system. The result works but is not the final configuration.

Network layout of Grandstream H-503, Freebox, and phone line
Network layout of Grandstream HT-503, Freebox (router), and phone line

Set up Asterisk on Raspberry Pi with Debian

In my experiments I tried Asterisk for Raspberry Pi but found the FreePBX web interface too complex and overwhelming. I was more productive installing Asterisk on the Raspberry Pi’s lite image of Debian.

Debian Stretch Lite

Debian is a flavour of the open source and free Linux operating system. I chose Debian because it is the official operating system provided by the Raspberry Pi project; other Linux flavours exist and are probably just as good.

At the time of writing, the download version was:

Minimal image based on Debian Stretch
Version:September 2017
Release date:2017-09-07
Kernel version:4.9

Copy the image onto your Raspberry Pi’s microSD card, see installing images. On macOS:

  • Format the microSD card as FAT using Disk Image;
  • Note disk id of mounted card, in my case this was disk8;
  • Copy the image onto card using the Terminal command, using the appropriate disk id:
    sudo dd bs=1m if=2017-09-07-raspbian-stretch-lite.img of=/dev/rdisk8 conv=sync
  • Enable ssh access, see Remote Access > Secure Shell:
    touch /Volumes/boot/ssh
  • Place the microSD card into the Raspberry Pi and power it on.

Set up the Raspberry Pi

  • ssh into Raspberry Pi as the default user pi with default password of raspberry; find the IP address of the device via the switch or DHCP server.
  • Change the default password:
  • Reclaim any spare microSD card space using raspi-config : Advanced > Expand Filesystem > Reboot:
    sudo raspi-config
  • Update Debian’s core software:
    sudo apt-get update
    sudo apt-get upgrade
  • Install ntp (Network Time Protocol) for accurate system time:
    sudo apt-get install ntp
    sudo /etc/init.d/ntp restart

Asterisk on a Raspberry Pi

Asterisk is an open source and free software based Private Branch Exchange (PBX). It is Asterisk that will handle the computers on the network and the calls coming in from and going to the HT-503.

  • Install Asterisk on the Raspberry Pi:
    sudo apt-get install asterisk

All the server software we need is now installed and ready to set up.

I started simply with Asterisk and have not gone much further than getting two extensions up and running with the landline. I followed the examples at A simple PBX system in The Asterisk Book to achieve this.

Asterisk is huge and complex. I deferred to the defaults in almost every case. I put aside the originals and started with blank files for the sip.conf and extensions.conf files:

cd /etc/asterisk
sudo mv sip.conf sip.conf-orig
sudo mv extensions.conf extensions.conf-orig
sudo touch sip.conf
sudo touch extensions.conf

These commands change into the folder, cd, containing all the Asterisk configuration files. Then the two key configuration files are renamed, mv, to remain safely available but out of the way. Two blank files are then created, touch, to take their place.

Within /etc/asterisk/sip.conf I created four extensions:

  • 2000
  • 2001
  • ht503fxo
  • ht503fxs

An extension is effectively a phone within the telephone system. 2000 and 2001 are from the Asterisk examples I followed and dedicated to soft phones on our computers. You can dial 2000 on the house phone and the computer or device within the house will ring.

The two ht503fxo and ht503fxs are extensions for the HT-503 to use. Numerous configuration guides suggested that an extension (SIP account) for the HT-503 was not required, or more strongly, must not be configured. I did not find this to be the case. Doug Crompton’s Replacing a Sipura SPA-3000
with a Grandstream HT-503
provided the first hint that this advice was misguided.

The complete /etc/asterisk/sip.conf file:

port = 5060
binaddr =
context = others





The complete /etc/asterisk/extensions.conf file:


exten => 2000,1,Dial(SIP/2000,20)
exten => 2001,1,Dial(SIP/2001,20)

exten => _XXXXX.,1,Dial(SIP/ht503fxo,60,D(w${EXTEN}))
exten => _XXXXX.,n,Hangup()

The extensions are trivial in our case. The two internal extensions, 2000 and 2001, map to SIP accounts.

The final extension is a pattern _XXXXX. that matches any 6 or more digits. Matched calls are then passed to the HT-503 via SIP. The format of the Dial(SIP/ht503fxo,60,D(w${EXTEN}) is interesting and differs from some configuration guides. The line says, dial the ht503fxo, and then after connecting, dials ${EXTEN}. The w waits a couple of seconds.

I saw guides suggesting the format Dial(SIP/ht503fxo/${EXTEN}) but this did not immediately work for the HT-503. I suspect more experiments would reveal a better approach.

This Asterisk configuration is simplistic and likely needs hardening for security. In particular, I believe the context of the HT-503 extensions need attention. I also suspect some of the HT-503 key value pairs can be removed. For now though, it works.

Asterisk Hints

Use sudo asterisk -rvvvvvc to connect to a running instance of Asterisk. The extra verbosity is essential for debugging.

Set up the HT-503 for Asterisk

With the Asterisk server set up and running, I turned my attention to the HT-503. Discovering the appropriate settings for this box has been time consuming.

Back of the Grandstream HT-503
Back of the Grandstream HT-503

Plug in:

  • Plug nothing into the LAN port
  • Ethernet cable into the WAN port
  • Power into DC12V
  • Physical telephone into Phone port
  • Telephone line from wall into Line port

HT-503 Network Settings

Connect the HT-503 to the switch via the WAN port. Then use the physical phone connected to the HT-503 to enable WAN access to the web interface:

  • Dial **** (menu) > 12 (WAN access) > 9 (toggle to enable)

Reboot the HT-503:

  • Dial **** (menu) > 99 (reboot menu) > 9 (reboot)

My network is simple. The HT-503 is plugged into a switch. The network already has a DHCP server handing out IP addresses. The HT-503’s support for both local and wide area networks is not needed; let’s turn that off.

Basic Settings
  • Telnet Server: No
  • Device Mode: Bridge
  • WAN side HTTP/Telnet access: Yes

HT-503 Country Specific Settings

A telephone line’s behaviour is country specific. That means the following section is only relevant as a guide to what needs change but not what to change the values to.

My HT-503 is in France connected to a French landline. I need to change the box to behave appropriately for France.

Basic Settings

Time Zone: GMT+01:00

Advanced Settings
  • Dial Tone: f1=440@-10,f2=0@-10,c=0/0;
  • Ringback Tone: f1=440@-10,f2=0@-10,c=150/300;
  • Busy Tone: f1=440@-10,f2=0@-10,c=50/50;
  • Reorder Tone: f1=440@-10,f2=0@-10,c=50/50;

These lines tell the HT-503 what to expect for dial tones in France. I found the Interface Technical Specifications for France Telecom and Operational Bulletin No. 781 (1.II.2003) and Annexed List: Various tones used in national networkshelpful in crafting these. I am unsure about the volumes but -10 seems to work.

FXS Port
  • SLIC Setting: France
FXO Port
  • FXO Termination > PSTN Disconnect Tone: f1=440@-30,f2=440@-30,c=50/50;
  • FXO Termination > Country-based: France

You may find the PSTN Disconnect Tone does not work for your set-up. If this happens, try: f1=440@-30, f2=440@-30, c=500/500;

HT-503 Asterisk Settings

With the network and country specific settings applied, the HT-503 is ready to connect to the Asterisk server.

Basic Settings
  • Unconditional Call Forward to VOIP: 2000 / ip.address.raspberry.pi / 5060

This setting tells the HT-503 to forward all incoming calls from the landline (PSTN) to the specified SIP account. In this case the account is for extension 2000 on our Asterisk server. This means any phone connected to the Asterisk server will ring when someone phones your home landline.

FXO Port
  • FXO Termination > Number of Rings: 2
  • FXO Termination > Impedance-based: Yes
  • FXO Termination > PSTN Ring Thru FXS: No
  • Channel Dialing > Stage Method (1/2): 1

This reduces the number of rings before the HT-503 picks up incoming calls. Two rings is enough for caller identification information to be collected by the HT-503 and passed onto the Asterisk server. You can reduce the number of rings to zero but you may loose Caller ID support.

By the time your computer’s soft phone rings, the caller will have heard two or three rings. This is because the HT-503 consumes the first two rings and only then starts sending the call to the network.

I am not convinced Impedance-based is needed.

The PSTN Ring Thru FXS determines whether a physical phone connected to the HT-503 rings when an incoming call arrives. I want only the computers to make a sound when calls come in, so I have disabled the physical phone from ringing.

Stage Method is critical. This setting determines how the HT-503 expects external numbers to be dialled. By default the HT-503 is configured to expect a two stage dialling process. The first stage is to dial the registered SIP account, ht503fxo. The caller will then hear the external dial tone. Only then is the external number called and this is referred to as stage 2.

We want to be able to dial our external number in one step. Our soft phone should only need to dial the external number. It is then the responsiblity of Asterisk and the HT-503 to cooperate. With Stage Method set to 1 this is what we get. Remember the Dial(SIP/ht503fxo,60,D(w${EXTEN})) in extensions.conf? This line connects to the HT-503 and immediately asks for the HT-503 to dial out the number we initially dialled.

If you wanted to be able to dial to just an external line, this is possible with:

exten => 2003,1,Dial(SIP/ht503fxo)

With this line in /etc/asterisk/extension.conf, a call to 2003 would end up hearing the dial tone of the external landline. From there you could dial a number on the keypad to connect elsewhere.

HT-503 SIP Settings

The SIP accounts on the HT-503 connect to the Asterisk server. The names of the accounts is deliberate the will hopefully ease pairing of the right port with the right account.

FXS Port
  • Account Active: Yes
  • Primary SIP Server: ip.address.raspberry.pi
  • Outbound Proxy: ip.address.raspberry.pi
  • SIP User ID: ht503fxs
  • Authenticate ID: ht503fxs
  • Authenticate Password: 1234
  • SIP Registration: Yes
FXO Port
  • Account Active: Yes
  • Primary SIP Server: ip.address.raspberry.pi
  • Outbound Proxy: ip.address.raspberry.pi
  • SIP User ID: ht503fxo
  • Authenticate ID: ht503fxo
  • Authenticate Password: 1234
  • SIP Registration: Yes

Reboot and Test

Congratulations on getting through all those settings. It is now time to reboot the HT-503, for luck, and start testing the phones work as desired.

Update: I upgraded to a Synology DiskStation in place of the Raspberry Pi. See how to set up Asterisk with Docker on a NAS.

Internet At Home Without a Phone Line

Our house move is nearly upon us and the telecom line has yet to be installed. Rather than panic, I set up a wireless network backed by a 4G mobile/cellular data connection.

The resulting connection is enough to work with but I still look forward to having a physical line. The laws of physics mean a physical connection will always outpace a wireless one.

Simple Approach

By chance I had a spare TP-Link TL-MR3420 bought for family but later no longer required. This surprisingly inexpensive box did exactly what I needed and with almost no fiddly set-up.

If you are looking for a fast, simple to connect solution, buy the TP-Link TL-MR3420 or whatever is the latest model. The low price of the TP-Link box is because you will need a separate USB 3G or 4G mobile stick. The USB stick is plugged into the TP-Link box and the box shares the mobile connection through a wireless network.

This means one mobile connection is shared across all the devices you have.

TP-Link TL-MR3420 + USB 4G modem = Easy Wireless Network

Want a more capable but more complex set up experience? Consider a RouterBOARD.